51, quai des Grands Augustins (6)
Forty or so years ago Laperouse was my favorite Paris restaurant. It was a splurge, but I ate there when it had 3 Michelin stars. I ate there when it had 2 Michelin stars. Then it became a historic relic; a beautiful building and location hollowed out as a great restaurant. In the meantime, Paris changed. Paris chefs and restaurants changed. French food changed.
Now Laperouse is attempting a revival with a serious chef and, according to the a la carte menu, serious ambitions. And there is a special lunch menu, 45€ for two courses, 55€ for three, each served with wine.
Good food in exquisite, historic surroundings. Not a 2 or 3-star experience (see Astrance, Grand Vefour, Lasserre, etc.), but a very good one.
On the lunch menu, carrot soup with mushroom ravioli or skate wing meat over sliced radishes, grilled pike or lamb in pastry over wild mushrooms, pain perdu or exotic fruits.
Laperouse is primarily a warren of small and smaller private rooms. In an open space overlooking the river from the 2nd floor, 8 tables nicely served by three. If lacking some polish, it was not because they didn’t try.
A la carte, chef’s menu at 115€ and lunch at 45€ and 55€. An extra glass of offered wine, 13€.
In 2019, shuttered. Not clear when it closed. And a 3 Star historic property now a relic. Sad. (Spring, 2019)
Being reopened by new owners with a name chef, but as an event space, not per se a traditional classic restaurant. (Summer, 2019)