15th Arrondissement


Grand Pan (Le)

20, rue Rosenwald (15)
Tel: 01-42-50-02-50


Le Grand Pan was well discovered before our visit. Five years old and well- reviewed, it seemed as if everyone was a regular or at least a repeat. A good sign.

Small. Out of the way on a back street in the 15th. Two rooms. Tiny kitchen. Blackboard menu featuring meat and emphasizing the quality of the ingredients. For the most part the dishes and preparations are simple, but the food was superb. A very happy restaurant.

We will be back.

We were back two months later. Even better. Such high energy. Such a diverse crowd. All ages. Almost all French. Almost all ordering steak, veal chop or pork chop for two. An addition to our Favorites list.

An insight: The picture of the chef sticking his head out of the kitchen window reminded me of the now chic and over-hyped L’Ami Louis 25 years ago, under the original chef and ownership. Same regular devotees, obscure neighborhood. Meat-focused.

Grand Pan is not for everyone. For some, 55 seats in this tiny space would contradict their image of fine French dining. But if you like Le Regalade (See 14th), etc., you’ll love Le Grand Pan.

Le Grand Pan does not require a fresh review following another outstanding October 2016 dinner. It is not a Diary “Favorite” for nothing. But rereading my comments from earlier meals fails to fully convey how good and how unusual this small, out of the way, casual, crowded, informal, meat-centric bistro really is.

Rare in recent years – anywhere – we were the only Americans and the only tourists at dinner. As at every other meal there, the dominant clientele is older, middle-class French couples for whom this is less date night than “Let’s eat out”. They are regulars; not wealthy, chic or particularly sophisticated, and they are warmly welcomed, notwithstanding that in food terms Le Grand Pan has become widely known, by fellow chefs particularly, many of whom, I think, envy its full tables every night and its simple approach to casual dining.

Other than the middle class couples, young (and not so young) groups of French businessmen occupy most of the other tables, parties of 4 or 6. All (and most others) order either the grilled sliced pork chop, veal chop or steak, with sides of salad and thick cut frites, the restaurant’s specialty, preceded by heaping boards of carefully sourced charcuterie.

It is authentic, thriving and if not for everyone, great fun for staff and patrons alike. And at 121€ for 2, with wine, water, coffee and cocktail, a bargain.

At a 2017 dinner unchanged, in all of the best ways. High energy staff. All French. Many regulars. Everyone having fun. With chicken galantine over red cabbage and celery remoulade with crabmeat, our favorite grilled veal chop for two, one dessert and a (more) expensive wine plus one aperitif, 163€.


Sliced veal chop in light cream sauce for two. Exceptional. Other options: beef or pork chop prepared similarly, also one fish, lobster, duck breast, etc. Most simply cooked on plancha.

First courses cepes and string bean salad with smoked duck breast and foie gras. Desserts: Pear tart, plums with mascarpone.


Two waiters handle the rooms professionally, quickly and casually.


153€ for two, with mid-priced (44€) wine. Also wine specials (on blackboard we didn’t see until we left).

(6x) (2014-2017)

Pere Claude (Le)

51, avenue de la Motte-Picquet (15)
Tel: 01-47-34-03-05


Modern, but modestly luxurious. Glassed in terrace. Walk into an open rotisserie and plancha attended by the chef. That defines the menu. Reasonably priced. Reasonably good, but not memorable. Open Sunday. Friendly, but not warm.


A good assortment of mostly cold first courses. Wine in carafes. Predictable grilled items, including an assortment of rotisserie meats and a comparable offering of fish. Good for Sunday night, but maybe not much more.


Friendly, but not particularly professional.


A la carte and set price menu. Reasonable, but appropriate to the food.

(1x) (2011)

Quinzieme (Le)

14, rue Cauchy (15)
Tel:  01-45-54-43-43


This is a very good, very high end restaurant working hard to move into a more rarified Michelin category.  It is ten years old, large for a luxury restaurant and the original solo effort of French TV chef Cyril Lignac, who now boasts a small empire of restaurants (see Aux Pres, 6th Arr.) and pastry shops.

It is the lone commercial occupant of a large middle class apartment block in the 15th, an inauspicious location, but attractive and comfortable inside.  On a Monday night, quite busy, with a mature clientele, understandable given the high prices.

Le Quinzieme aims very high.  For the French who know the chef from TV, it may be a problem that he seems not to be in the kitchen, but 2 young chefs recently recruited from the 3-Star Pic in Valence turn out beautiful, high-end food without him, no different than innumerable American restaurants with “celebrity chefs” like Thomas Keller, Mario Batalli, etc.  But if you are not French and don’t know Cyril Lignac, it should only be evaluated on its merits.


Two menus offered, no a la carte.  One four course, with extras, the other longer.  The smaller 120€ menu is light, well composed, recognizable and quite beautifully presented.  Variation of cepes, cod, beef and hazelnut pastry comprise the menu, with exquisite hors d’oeuvres and a few dessert add-ons.  All elegant and top rate.


At a very high, formal standard, bilingual and friendly, led by capable, experienced service director from 3-star Astrance.


Expensive, as expected.  Menus 120€ and 150€, with much lower priced lunch.  Deep wine list with a broad range.  Sommelier very happy to recommend from the lower end.

(1x) (2015)


Photo from “Yelp”

Restaurant Biscotte

22 Rue Desnouettes (15)
Tel: 01-45-33-22-22


There has been a drift in this Diary over its brief history toward more expensive, more high-profile restaurants. Maybe it is because of the leads we receive; what we hear and read about is new, changed in ownership or otherwise noteworthy.

Biscotte brought us back to our original mission. Perhaps that might be why we liked it so much.

Deep in a middle-class residential neighborhood in the pleasant, but undistinguished 15th. A small unadorned storefront with a handful of small tables, a tall eating bar in the center surrounding a partly glass-covered completely open kitchen. A chef assembling plates at a small open pass supported by a sous chef and dishwasher, his wife the pastry chef behind the bar preparing desserts, and 2 servers. A neighborhood crowd, 100% French, filling every seat until well past 10:00 p.m. A small menu, reasonable prices. A perfect model, and a fortunate one for us.


3 – 4 a la carte choices in each of 3 categories also offered as dinner for 37€. Or 6 courses for 49€ (smaller versions).

Durade carpaccio, gnocchi with clams, roast pork, merlan (fish), steak or vegetarian option; chocolate mousse, fruit or another chocolate dessert. Each carefully plated with refined accompaniments, all finished to order. The kitchen on top of its game. Good choices, good food, good value. A small space, happy, local people all seem to be enjoying themselves on an April Thursday night.


Two helpful servers with good English. Service appropriate to low key style of the restaurant.


37€ for 3 courses. Ample wine list with generally low prices. With a 39€ Graves, water and coffee, a fair and highly satisfying, 128€.

(1x) (2019)

Restaurant du Marche

59, rue de Dantzig (15)
Tel: 01-48-28-31-55


A nearly 50 year old bistro hidden on a nondescript street in the 15th can hardly be described as a “find”. Obviously, plenty of people found and enjoyed Restaurant du Marche over the decades, but it was not known to me. I discovered it thanks to the normally discerning “Hungry in Paris” website.

A small, classic bistro, ten or so tables for 35 guests – all middle aged French when we were there. Authentic, bordering on seedy, as in untouched, but charming because of that. Movie set-typical, but try to find many more like it. Best of all, it is not limited to the look. The greeting, menu, friendliness and execution all aligned perfectly.


Limited three course menu with unusual specialties, plus a handful of supplements. Blackboard wine list across a price range with good choices.

Entrees included foie gras, house specialty pig’s foot prepared as a grilled open sandwich with chevre and a delicate green salad. Plats included another house specialty, steamed whole duck liver, plus a grilled and a roasted fish, duck Sheppard’s pie. Five dessert choices, including a sublime slice of brie and sherbets from Berthillon. Very good food.


Two in front, the senior English speaking and exceptionally welcoming in a low-key way. Service style very casual.


Three course formula 34€, plus mid-range wine 40€. Supplements (oven roasted scallops) 5- 8€. Very fair prices. The blackboard listed lunch: salad, plat, water and one glass of wine: 18€.

(4x) (2010-2014)