14, rue Cauchy (15)
This is a very good, very high end restaurant working hard to move into a more rarified Michelin category. It is ten years old, large for a luxury restaurant and the original solo effort of French TV chef Cyril Lignac, who now boasts a small empire of restaurants (see Aux Pres, 6th Arr.) and pastry shops.
It is the lone commercial occupant of a large middle class apartment block in the 15th, an inauspicious location, but attractive and comfortable inside. On a Monday night, quite busy, with a mature clientele, understandable given the high prices.
Le Quinzieme aims very high. For the French who know the chef from TV, it may be a problem that he seems not to be in the kitchen, but 2 young chefs recently recruited from the 3-Star Pic in Valence turn out beautiful, high-end food without him, no different than innumerable American restaurants with “celebrity chefs” like Thomas Keller, Mario Batalli, etc. But if you are not French and don’t know Cyril Lignac, it should only be evaluated on its merits.
Two menus offered, no a la carte. One four course, with extras, the other longer. The smaller 120€ menu is light, well composed, recognizable and quite beautifully presented. Variation of cepes, cod, beef and hazelnut pastry comprise the menu, with exquisite hors d’oeuvres and a few dessert add-ons. All elegant and top rate.
At a very high, formal standard, bilingual and friendly, led by capable, experienced service director from 3-star Astrance.
Expensive, as expected. Menus 120€ and 150€, with much lower priced lunch. Deep wine list with a broad range. Sommelier very happy to recommend from the lower end.