10 bis, rue Servandoni (6)
From 2010: Informal Left Bank neighborhood spot. Small. Tired. Eccentric. Out of the 1920’s, and not much redecorating since. Owner plus daughter. Tiny kitchen in the hallway. Use the bathroom before you leave your hotel. Like a comfortable old shoe, with a rarely changing menu of comfort dishes.
Good. Never more. Large portions. Roast chicken, lamb shank, cassoulet, sole, beef with olives.
Efficient, but neither unfriendly nor warm.
A la carte. No credit cards. 8x (2010-2013)
Sign in the window, “Under Construction” Rarely does that tell the real story. (2014)
A new/old restaurant, and a good one.
28 seats. Warm. All middle-aged French couples and a foursome of businessmen. 2 chefs working in coordination with hallway prep kitchen. Small blackboard menu. (Beet salad with goat cheese, leeks in vinegar, crab salad with sliced asparagus; cod, pork shoulder, chicken breast). Little ambition, other than to serve competently executed, simple weekday food to a small crowd of local neighborhood folk (except for us) looking exactly for that.
Not polished, not a gourmet destination, but exactly what proved perfect for a chilly first night in Paris and a major improvement over the somewhat sleepy version which preceded it.
Two meals in 2019. Still the quintessential neighborhood place. Still all French. Still highly competent, if not ambitious. Still full. Prices higher.