117, rue du Cherche Midi (6)
Classic bistro décor. Deliberately tired, but not in the kitchen. Everything L’Ami Louis has except the attitude and prices. Menu innovation: some half portions available. Luxury meats and order ahead desserts (soufflé; extraordinary apple tart). High energy. Great fun. Always full. Terrific food.
No reason to change a word above, except for a fall 2015 dinner which underscores every superlative. This is the real thing, a luxury bistro, with the luxury part found in the menu, ingredients, portion sizes and prices. One negative note: more foreign voices than ever before, all having fun. New (seasonal) menu item: duck for two with figs served very rare. Girolles with poached egg as an entrée. The two noted desserts remain spectacular, as does the mille-feuille – each ordered ahead, and each large enough for the table. Order all 3!
Excellent bistro food. Beef with béarnaise, veal chop, stuffed girolles, wild duck confit, foie gras. Some fish. Large portions. Rich.
Friendly, casual, attentive service. Hurried; occasionally gruff, but with a smile.
High – as expected. All a la carte. Very high wine prices. Not a good range at the lower end.
Four people. One bottle, plus 2 glasses of wine. Plenty of food, 372€. Wine list unchanged; very expensive wines, plus (only) 1 or 2 affordable choices in each category for the rest of us.