6 Rue de Saint Simon (7)
Tel: 01-45-44-73-73

AMBIANCE/DÉCOR

For many years we walked by Gaya on the nearby Rue du Bac, a small seafood focused satellite restaurant of the Michelin 3-star chef, Pierre Gagnaire. Somewhere, I had the impression it was more a high-priced “Eurotrash” scene than a serious destination. About a year ago Gaya moved a few blocks to the larger space of Ferme St. Simon. The Rue du Bac location now a high-priced Italian spot.

We finally tried the (new) Gaya. Too bad we waited.

The space is beautifully redone, top to bottom. It is modern, without being edgy. It is comfortable, very high-end, fairly priced relative to value and no Eurotrash in sight on a Saturday night. Without the embellishments of its 3-star pedigree, it shows the originality, finesse, professionalism and experience of its history.

FOOD

Modern without being hokey. Completely original dishes, plus raw seafood platters. Largely, but not limited to fish. A la carte plus 80€ four course menu. Lunch at a steep discount, as is typical.

Poached/boiled eggs with shrimp, the yolk mixing with a rich seafood sauce. Raw thin sliced scallops over deliciously spiced avocado. Shelled mussels in white cream sauce; chopped shellfish with leeks. The thinnest, lightest apple tart to share.

SERVICE

Fully bilingual, including English language menu. Highly professional with no ballet and good humor.

PRICES

A (welcome) shock as applies to wines: every previous experience at a restaurant of this class would have led me to expect a rarefied list replete with triple digit choices. Here, half the list below that-level, many far below. Professional sommelier recommended wonderful 46€ Crozes-Hermitage.

With wine, two desserts, 216€ for two. Not cheap, but a fine meal and a more than fair value.

(1X) (2019)