11, rue Dupin (6)
Ten years after first eating at L’Epi Dupin (on a recommendation from a Ritz chef), and tens of meals later, a late 2011 summary reassessment:
Still among the best food to cost values in Paris. (Except lunch at Frederic Simonin, see 17th). Inventive dishes, well executed, served by a hardworking, long serving team in tight quarters, always packed. Turnover the key to its model – no lingering over the table for the evening. 2 – 3 turns the norm. That plus small, closely spaced tables and hard surfaces makes for noise, bustle and palpable energy. Not for everyone, but the concept succeeds better than a legion of others which have tried to duplicate the basic format.
Why? The menu is constantly changing and the food is always first-rate; well thought out and well executed.
Exceptional, and consistently so. Every meal a winner.
Unique dishes. Constantly changing menu. Real thought goes into the menu and the six choices for each course.
L’Epi Dupin is not as comfortable physically as many of the other three course formula restaurants in this Diary, but year-in, year-out, its food is both superior and unusual.
Friendly and professional. Chef often on the floor. High turnover, but not without grace.
A 2014 change in key dining room/service staff with the departures of the two most senior waiters/managers, but you wouldn’t know it unless you did.
Medium/Low formula. 38€. Some supplements.