23 Rue Treilhard (8)
It’s a complicated story with a great ending.
I noticed Cena on line, a new restaurant in the 8th owned by the same group as one of our neighborhood favorites, Le Bon St. Pourcain (see 6th). The internet raved about a new young chef. We knew our 3-star personal favorite, L’Astrance (where lunch was an affordable bargain), was closed; its new location evidently delayed by Covid and construction.
An email from a Paris friend of an American friend: the young chef gone, cooking at Cena the chef and co-owner of L’Astrance, Pascal Barbot. Managing the front, his L’Astrance partner, Christophe.
Cena full. Why not, a 3-star meal in what was built as an upscale neighborhood restaurant. The young staff seemingly agog.
Imagine a resume with a history of 3 Michelin stars.
It is not, nor is it intended to be, a 3-star experience, or so remotely priced.
A short a la carte menu designed and executed by Pascal in a semi-open kitchen, including a few dishes lifted from the L’Astrance menu: mixed mushrooms and foie gras, scallops in a rich but light-scented sauce, Arctic white fish with special Japanese rice and beurre blanc sauce. Truly exceptional. For dessert, pear tartlet and chocolate pastry with chocolate ice cream.
Not cheap, but a bargain. Fun to be with such a happy crowd, staff and clients.
If all goes well, L’Astrance opens in July, 2022, so months remain (from October 2021) to participate.