Abri
92, rue du Faubourg-Poissonniere (10)
Tel: 01-83-97-00-00
AMBIANCE/DÉCOR
On Mondays and Saturdays at lunch, Abri serves only its already legendary Japanese- style sandwich.
A tiny space with open galley kitchen and 14 seats at small tables. The room is otherwise undecorated, including no sign outside. The sign remains from the coffee bar which preceded it.
The sandwich was quite good, but Abri is one of the new English language blogger/magazine story hype restaurants in the tradition of Le Comptoir du Relais (see 6th), Frenchie (see 2nd) and Spring (see 1st).
Ironically, our lunch took place on the day following a major story in the New York Times which asked in the headline, can such restaurants “save” French food? I doubt Abri can, as if French food broadly requires saving.
It is not fair to doubt what dinner could be like without trying, but with the prep space so small it is hard to imagine cooking of complexity or finesse. But we might try next time.
FOOD
The sandwich was very good: thick sliced crustless brioche toast with an omelet, a fresh fried breaded pork cutlet, shredded cabbage, a slice of cheese and two condiments. Freshly made to order.
Abri attracts primarily French and Japanese on sandwich days, at least, for eat-in and take-out.
Sandwich, beverages, and a large madeleine for dessert complete the menu.
SERVICE
Not really service. And only in Japanese, but willing and with a smile.
PRICE
I cannot speak to dinner. Sandwich 13€. With two waters, two coffees and one glass of wine, 31€.
(1x) (2014)