151, boulevard St. Germain (6)
Tel: 01-45-48-53-91
AMBIANCE/DÉCOR
There are many good reasons to want to experience Lipp, at a weekend lunch with friends or relatives, for example, it is just that the food isn’t one of them – not if facing so many choices for too few days in Paris.
Brassiere Lipp is historic, original, beautiful and classic. It is an institution with a celebrated history at a Left Bank crossroads across the boulevard from Café Flore and Deux Magots. Every guidebook counsels to eat downstairs; that upstairs is “Siberia”. Maybe so. Drop by the day before and book a reservation. They are happy to have you.
On a winter Saturday lunch, not a tourist in sight. All French. Many couples. Some singles. Motorcycle helmets outnumbered by canes, with many regulars.
FOOD
The food is no better than fair. Hearty; traditional; German- influenced. Chourcroute, roast chicken, roast leg of lamb. Nothing modern. Nothing exciting, but taken together, a wonderful experience.
SERVICE
Experienced, old school, deft waiters. The grumpy, but friendly type. What you expect at a New York steakhouse. If you play along, they can make it fun.
PRICE
Surprisingly high. All a la carte. With wine, 50€/ per person.
More than 100 years since its opening on Boulevard St. Germaine across the busy street from the legendary Café Deux Magots, Lipp’s wonderful décor is unchanged. Every service full. Tuxedoed waiters rushing around from steam tables (which must dominate the kitchen). Yes, the food is mediocre at best and it hasn’t gotten better since we first started eating here 15 years ago. But it carries energy and charm. Half French, half tourists of all nationalities. All that said, it is still possible to compose a satisfactory meal here amidst surroundings increasingly rare in Paris. Celery remoulade, fresh and stunning. A grilled sausage with fresh mashed potatoes. At neighboring tables, choucroute brimming with ham and sauerkraut, echoing the beer hall history of this address. Very far from a gourmet adventure, but at 50€ or so for 2, great fun, a satisfying meal and very French.
(12X) (2009 – 2022)