9, Carrefour de l’Odeon (6)
For Americans, the best known and most highly publicized of the formula/price fixed menu/formally-trained chefs gone downscale places. And among the first. (Original chef of Regalade.) Still perennially crowded, hard to get a table. Good food, but no longer unique- no longer even unusual.
Five courses at dinner. 50€. No choice. Smallish portions, plus cheese tray. One sitting. At lunch, no reservations. Line up at noon. Some choice, 35€.
At dinner, bring out the plates. All the same. Not quite a test of a waiter’s skill, and it shows.
Plenty of competitors, many as good at 35€-40€.
The wine list a shocker, without equal among formula spots: prices/selections disproportionately, unfairly high.