5 et 7, rue de la Bastille (4)
A large, historic, exquisitely designed and well preserved brasserie between the Bastille and the Place des Vosges. Chain owned. Food and service now in the style of similar cafes (Balzar, Lipp); hearty, plentiful, varied and good, but never memorable. Without the décor, you wouldn’t bother. But the décor – and the tradition which accompanies it – makes it worthwhile – and very Parisian.
Oysters, roast pork, roast chicken, scotch salmon, choucroute. Traditional desserts.
Willing and professional, but distracted.
Medium. No bargains.