18, rue de L’Exposition (7)
A new discovery. Just off the Rue St. Dominique, an area already heavy with good, smaller restaurants. On a small one block street, the former chef (11 years) of the American Embassy purchased an existing restaurant, at first left the name and changed everything else. Now the name too. Refined without a hint of stuffiness, it offers a tightly edited menu of carefully prepared, cooked to order plates. A menu exciting to read. Food good to look at and to taste.
Some important changes. In place of a la carte, now 37€ Formula.
According to the chef, quality untouched, but some of the a la carte luxury ingredients gone. And on a Thursday night, every table full.
A slightly larger staff to handle more business, but this remains a small, personal restaurant.
Refined. Beautifully plated. Fish, scallops, veal shoulder, chicken with morels, lamb shank. Desserts: poached pear, caramel soufflé. Entrees: lobster stuffed ravioli, crabmeat. Limited additional plats du jour, but the menu offers plenty of choice. Desserts a weak spot.
The chef and his wife are ubiquitous and attentive hosts, assisted by a small staff offering fine, personalized, but informal service.
A la carte, medium to high. Four people with wine, 220€ – 335€. Not a 34€ menu, but at its own level, a great value. 29€ menu at lunch.
Now 37€ for three courses. Lunch 21€.