56 Passage des Panoramas (2)
Tel: 01-44-82-00-62
AMBIANCE/DÉCOR
Passage 53 (see below) is now a two star Michelin destination. About three years ago it opened a simple, modern, apparently authentic gyoza bar (Japanese dumplings) two doors away in the same historic, but now somewhat rundown passage, the antecedent to today’s shopping mall. By itself the passage makes an interesting visit, one of about 20 which still exist in Paris.
This is a one trick pony: gyoza only, cooked to order. One variety, sautéed and steamed. Sides of rice, noodles or edamame available. Only choice: platter of 8 or 12. A second location in the 3rd.
FOOD
Gyoza. Delicious. Inexpensive. Very popular.
SERVICE
Four hardworking Japanese women behind the bar sauté, steam and serve. About as much “service” as at a McDonald’s, and equally efficient.
PRICE
8 gyoza 7€; 12 for 9. With two waters, one side and one glass of wine, 33€. Not for every day, but Paris is an international city devoted to Japanese food.
Paris has about 20 surviving passages, 19th Century indoor shopping centers typically built as block-long cut-throughs of office or apartment buildings lined with small shops on either side of a long covered indoor street of shops, typically covered by skylights. Most which remain show their age and near-obsolescence. Much less so the Passage des Panoramas in the 2nd, which has reinvented itself as an ethnic food hall – a long indoor street now 90% small restaurants and cafes with tables spilling out to the “street”. It is fun, lively and remarkably diverse, reflective of Paris’ unequalled ethnic diversity. Indian, Chinese, French, Italian, American, Japanese, Vietnamese restaurants one after another, including Gyoza where we have eaten lunch before. Good the first time. Still good. “Classic” pork dumplings, or chicken or vegetarian, 8 – 12 to an order, a few sides, a gyoza bowl with rice and chopped cabbage and bamboo shoots. All cleanly and greaselessly grilled and served at a counter (see also in Passages des Panoramas: Racines, Stern, Passage 53 from this Diary). A great, fast, inexpensive lunch.
(2X) (2014 – 2022)