5 rue du Nil (2)
Tel: 01-40-39-96-19
AMBIANCE/DÉCOR
Small room. Minutes from Les Halles. 22 seats, some on stools. Semi-open kitchen. Chef plus two helpers. Three relatively ambitious courses, 35€.
Reports of attitude and a mostly American clientele. Disconcerting.
It is hard to know why some formula spots get hyped, as this one does, while others not. As good as/no better than L’Agrume, Temps Au Temps, Itineraires, Affriole. Chef worked in New York.
FOOD
A notch more ambitious in terms of the combination of ingredients than the average. Well thought out, unusual dishes. Two choices for each of three categories. Every choice a winner.
SERVICE
Not in any way bad and surely friendly, but the one waiter has more to learn and maybe needs help.
PRICE
The 35€ standard, and another bargain at that. Maybe the shape of the room causes the physical space to sap some of the energy. It does not buzz like some of the others, but always full. Diners certainly seemed pleased with their choice. (Now 45€)
(2x) (2010)