30, av Ledru-Rollin (12)
We had been past several times (it is almost next door to Le Quincy). A venerable seafood restaurant in a marginal Bastille location.
On a Monday night, a paradox. Dated décor, a throwback to the provinces. Enticing, ambitious all fish menu, with prices to match. Chef takes orders. One actually feels he returns to the kitchen to cook. Two other tables occupied, plus a business group of 14 men ordering a la carte. Good food. Nothing sleek or commercial, but devoid of energy.
Warm scallop salad, crab with spinach in three profiteroles, swordfish a la plancha, bar in tomato/oil and vinegar sauce; Grand Marnier soufflé a house specialty. Limited but carefully chosen wines.
Attentive, practiced service
Fresh, wild seafood is expensive in Paris. No exception here.