15, rue de la Tour des Dames (9)
Tel: 33 1 45 26 21 48
Eighteen seats in a nicely redecorated room the size of a bedroom, a chef who doubles as dishwasher during service, and a lovely partner/waitress/hostess/reservationist. 28€ for three courses, at dinner 35€ for four. Wines by the glass under 10€. Budget so tight that not even the check carries the restaurant’s printed name, yet in the early days critically noticed and successful. At lunch, every seat taken.
No choice for entrée. Poached cold leeks with tiny clams and chopped nuts and toasted breadcrumbs with a clam juice cream; either poached fish or roast pork jowl with roasted and puree of turnip, both served with same brown glacé poured over at the table; either polenta cream with dried fruit or blue cheese whipped with cream and white grapes for dessert.
Relaxed, but proper. Each selection either described or offered as a surprise.
28€ for three courses. (At dinner) 35€ for four. 50€ multi-course tasting.
The small size is not uncomfortable, but energy difficult to find. Such highly personal restaurants are not unknown in Paris or on this list. One admires both the ambition and the execution, albeit not for everyone.