31 Avenue de Versailles (16)
Eight months old, four with a Michelin star, this is a wonderful, personal, cleanly designed, carefully managed, youthful, friendly, high-end restaurant with complex,artfully plated, delicious food. A keeper in every way.
The chef, about 40, Canadian, 3 years at The French Laundry, a brief stint at L’Astrance in Paris. He bakes his own bread and churns his own butter. His wife, also Canadian, manages the front of the house and oversees the wines, of which she is justly proud. Thirty seats, one block back from the river in a less fancy part of the 16th.
Tight menu, essentially four choices in each category. Carpaccio of fish, foie gras, roast tenderloin of veal, sweetbreads, breast of pintade, monkfish. Two desserts: chocolate soufflé, rhubarb tart. An attractive entrée also offered as an extra course, tagliatelle with shellfish in a rich butter sauce.
Yet a listing hardly suggests the complexity, beauty, deliciousness (and richness) of each dish which emerges from the open kitchen, which forms an active, colorful stage at the rear of the small, but well-designed room.
All young. All impeccably dressed, friendly, but formal, bilingual. If occasionally less polished in move or manner, it is all a fast moving work in progress.
High a la carte, but good value. A spread of wine prices arranged on the list by price. For two, with a wonderful 68€ red, 266€.