18, rue Paul Bert (11)
Tel: 01-43-72-24-01
AMBIANCE/DÉCOR
Busy, bustling, attractive if (deliberately) threadbare bistro and setting. A la carte blackboard and formula menu. Mostly meat. Deservedly popular, with Americans especially.
Bistrot Paul Bert was among my original group of Paris write-ups. It took 5 years to return, with plenty of comparison meals in between. It is better than the original review suggests, although nothing said then is different, only that it demands elaboration.
Larger than I remembered – a spacious, busy side room I must have missed. Very high energy. Diverse crowd. Still plenty of Americans, but except for an occasional loud American voice, mostly French. A mix of motorcycle helmets and older men eating alone, and everything in between. Busy and frenetic, but serious about food and menu. Like (and similar to) Le Grand Pan (see 15th) and Restaurant du Marche (see 15th), it is fun and good.
FOOD
Quite good; made better by the robust environment.
More interesting and diverse formula menu than often found, with a la carte additions. Scallops broiled in shells, hard boiled eggs with mayonnaise and black truffles. A la carte steak for two with shallots and marrow. Grand Marnier soufflé and crème caramel from menu. All impeccable. Featured bio wines plus reserve list.
SERVICE
Good, conscientious. (Waitress noticed and comped an undercooked dessert soufflé).
Hard-working and enjoying it.
PRICE
Moderate.
Three formula courses 38€. A la carte steak 58€ for two. With 32€ wine, coffee and water, 137€.
(3x) (2009-2015)