5 et 7, rue de la Bastille (4)
Tel: 01-42-72-87-82

AMBIANCE/DÉCOR

A large, historic, exquisitely designed and well preserved brasserie between the Bastille and the Place des Vosges. Chain owned. Food and service now in the style of similar cafes (Balzar, Lipp); hearty, plentiful, varied and good, but never memorable. Without the décor, you wouldn’t bother. But the décor – and the tradition which accompanies it – makes it worthwhile – and very Parisian.

FOOD

Oysters, roast pork, roast chicken, scotch salmon, choucroute. Traditional desserts.

SERVICE

Willing and professional, but distracted.

PRICE

Medium. No bargains.

(1x) (2011)